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DATA ON H20 HOLDING CAPACITIES:
HOLDING CAPACITY WHEN FULL
Holding capacity after filled as much as possible is about 130 gallons, at this time your boat will pitch and yawl side to side and shed most of the water, leaving about 50 gallons in the footwells.
HOLDING CAPACITY WHEN FLIPPED OVER AND FLIPPED BACK
The holding capacity when flipped and then flipped back over is 20 gallons. This is the amount of water left in boat after flipping back over. That's about 160lbs and it's not going to be a problem to self bail or to pump out quickly.
* Both of the above test were done in a still water lake, results may vary on the river. This data is for comparison use only.
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STANDARD EQUIPMENT:
SELF-BAILING FEATURE
As soon as water starts going into the boat our newly designed self-bailing feature starts dumping water back into the river at over 1 gallon a second. So in and around one minute you are empty and ready for the next rapid. Our self bailing feature works similar to that of a self bailing rubber raft, water in boat that is higher than the river level goes out the low exit point. In a raft, water drains thru inflatatable floor stitching. In this dory our floor height in footwells is higher than river water level. Water exits thru 5 three-hole scupper valves, ddumping waterout the bottom of the bow. There's a silt trap below the Scupper valves to alleviate associated problems with sand and debris. These valves are easily serviceable on or off the river. Also included is a blank scupper plate with matched drilling for screw mounts that converts self-bailing boat into a bucket boat. We use this feature in the colder months when we want dry feet for sure – just like a self-bailing raft, there's a little water on the floor at times. And just like a raft full of air, a sealed dory full of air and gear is like trying to push a basket ball under water... you can't! Whether right side up and full of water or upside down and going down river, this boat floats in all conditions.
DECK HATCHES
We have designed new Deck Hatches for this model. There are a total of 6 deck hatches: 3 round openings at 13.5 inch diameter (1 at the Bow, and 2 at sides of oarsman's seat), 1 ellipse opening in rear deck at 15.5 x 31 inches, and 2 located on either side of rowers footwell at 16.75 x 24.75 inches. Hatch openings are designed with a raised beveled combing and designed for a super positive seal. Spray skirts are 4mm neoprene with a heavy duty rubber rand. They stretch on like kayak skirts to form a perfect water tight seal. Sturdy Polymer Deck hatch covers complete the job by containing the spray skirt around the combing – guaranteeing a secure, super water tight seal even under the most extreme of conditions.
INTERIOR DRY SPACE
This Boat has huge amounts of dry space: one separate compartment at Bow and the rest of the deck hatches lead to a large common area under the main deck. There's more interior space than you can fill. This is by design, leaving an ample amount of air space which guarantees proper floatation, in the event of a fill up or capsize.
SEATING
Front Passenger Bench – Jack's Plastic Paco pad, 3" thick, cushions the ride for this lucky person (choice of colors).
Oarsman's seat, Where the action is! Comes standard with low back tractor seat, also available with high back seat or upgrade to traditional rope seat.
OAR LOCKS, BLOCKS, AND OAR STORAGE
We use Sawyer Cobra oars locks, because they are the best oar lock blocks we have. Uhmw-pe polymer – 3 holes for adjustability, they last forever and they are self lubricating, non squeak!
FOOT BRACE
Multi adjustable foot brace with tubular foot loops, if you need em!
FLIP LINES
Flip lines come standard, front and rear. Designed to do what they do, flip her back over!
GUNNELS
Like all of our dories we use premium white oak, it's a great look and very strong .
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DESIGN & ENGINEERING
Working close with river professionals and good friends over the last couple of decades and collecting opinions throughout the years have brought us to this design... materials, shape of hull, layout of interiors, not to mention overall fit and feel. Thanks to the past for helping to show us the best route into the future. The combination of the length, width, side wall height and rocker on this model give this boat a very balanced, predictable, feel whether in a trout river or bombing down the biggest river in the west.
HULL DESIGN
There are many schools of thought on whitewater dory designs, all being valid and having their place on the river. From the professional Briggs-style boats used on commercial trips running the Grand Canyon to many other classic home built designs from the last few decades. The professional outfitter's that guide out of Dory's in the Grand Canyon need certain features and usually have much bigger boats. From what I know, these Dory's are 19' to 20' long 7+ feet wide and in general LARGE. They carry 4 passengers and a river guide, and not much more than day gear and safety equipment. Add that up and you'll see why, 5 people X 175lbs = 875lbs + day gear 5 people X 20lbs = 100lbs, total 975lbs, so you can see there's not going to be much room for gear in these boats. So the outfitter brings a gear raft or 2 to move the large amounts of gear. It's definitely the best way to see the Grand Canyon, other than running it yourself in your dory. Don't get me wrong, these boats were designed and built with this purpose in mind and they do the job perfectly.
The DC-10 was built with the private whitewater ethusiast in mind. Large enough for the biggest water and small enough for weekend day floats. There's no secret that drawing a Grand Canyon permit might be a once in a lifetime event. Knowing that fact of life, we have designed a whitewater dory large enough for the biggest water but sized and designed for running most western rivers. Large dories only get to play on the river during spring run off. Our boat will handle big water all the way down to low flows and everything in-between. We like to think of this dory as a sportster, perfect for 2 people or run her solo. If you're looking for performance and sharp handling this boat delivers. There's plenty of dry interior space for a self supported mutli day adventure on big whitewater or on your favorite local river.
CONSTRUCTION & ENGINEERING
Without getting to in-depth or technical I'll explain some of the construction and engineering aspects of this dory...
Hull & side walls – We have put the strength and durability where we need it and saved weight where we could without sacrifice. The front third of the hull is double layered 1/4" panels (total thickness is 1/2") and triple layered at bottom chine (3/4"). The other two thirds of hull is double butted, 1/2" on top, 1/4" in middle and 1/2" on bottom at chine. The transom is beefed up and and there's additional chine gaurd on out side of side wall, making for a total chine thickness of 1 3/8 inches – beefy and super strong.
Bottom of the boat – The bottom is 3/8" thick and has a series of ribs running chine to chine along the inside bottom. Use these ribs to mount footman loops and tie down gear. The bottom of our boat is designed to flex. Letting it flex gives it the ability to deflect and slow down an impact. This protects the bottom from serious injury. A side benefit to this is a slight concave bottom. This aids in the boat holding an edge and more positive tracking.
Deck – Most whitewater dory decks are supported by bulkheads coming off the floor. This makes for separate compartments and a very stiff, static floor. Our boat design doesn't rely on the bottom to support the deck. Keeping these two area's independent allows for great benefits. The bottom can move, flexing and abosorbing impacts without lifting or pushing on the deck. The deck is supported with interior framing off the chine. The chine, being stactic, is able to support the deck with out limiting the bottom from moving. This also makes for an interior that is wide open, it's so big and open that a person can get inside and lay down.
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